The story behind the striking church ruin at Dunlewey began with James Russell a merchant in London who made a fortune from his commercial dealings in hops. Russell had married Jane Smith in 1835 and decided that with his wealth they would live a peaceful life in the wilds of Donegal. He set about purchasing the Dunlewey estate and lived quite happily there with Jane until his untimely death in 1848. His wife bereft of the love of her life commissioned the building of a church at the head of Dunlewey Lough in the shadow of the great Errigal mountain. Her husband was interred in a vault below its floor and when the church was finally finished in 1853 it was consecrated as a chapel of ease.
Throughout the subsequent decades the local community diminished and the church began its decline as well. In 1955 the roof was removed as it had become dangerous and the church was stripped of its assets which were distributed to other community churches.
Some renovation work was carried out in the late 1980's and finally twenty years later some enterprising people carried out additional work to preserve the church from deteriorating further.
The church sits at the top of the Lough affording a commanding and beautiful view. A long narrow and uneven boreen leads down from a secondary road into the valley of the Poisoned Glen. Here at the end of the boreen the graveyard is situated containing the church ruins. A gate allows access to a well kept graveyard and the main entrance doorway is on the Western aspect overlooking the lakeside. A couple of solid but worn steps leads into the former entrance porch below the church tower and a gated up set of steps accesses the ground level of the tower. Beyond the porch lies the rectangular expanse of the interior now open to the elements. Some of the walls still contain traces of the plasterwork but little else remains apart from the interred body of john Russell underfoot.
I have wanted to visit this ruin for a long time and finally was afforded the chance this year. It is a bit out of the way but worth every mile to get there. As I am sure others experienced I felt a serious sense of peacefulness here. Sitting on one of the stone benches to the side of the church I was lost in the serenity of the place. What the ruin lacks in features it exudes tenfold in atmosphere.
The church is adjacent to the ominous sounding Poisoned Glen where you can take a ramble and embrace its terrible beauty. Legend has it that in ancient times the Giant, Balor, King of Tory Island, followed the kidnapper of his beautiful daughter here and that a battle took place between the two in which Balor's eye was split and oozed out a molasses like liquid which poisoned the glen forever. Truth be told it is thought that a more likely explanation of the origin of the glen's name was the misspelling of the word Neamh which means "heavenly" for the word Neimhe which means "poison". Somehow I think heavenly glen describes it better with its stark but beautiful views of the mountains.
To find the ruin take the N56 heading East from the bridge in Gweedore and drive approx 3.7KM where you will see a right turn onto the R251 for Dunlewey. Drive approx 4.6KM and you will spot a slip road to the right with a sign for The Poisoned Glen. Take this slip road which is narrow and after about 1KM you will see the church ruin on your right. There is room outside the gate to park.
GPS 55.019341, -8.111128
