A guide to the best and sometimes off the beaten track historical ruins around Ireland and how to get there.
Friday, 29 November 2024
Old Kilberry Church Co Kildare
Thursday, 17 October 2024
Old Dunlewey Church Co Donegal
Monday, 26 August 2024
Tully Castle Co Fermanagh
On a recent trip to County Donegal we found ourselves driving through the Northern county of Fermanagh and while alongside the Southern shore of Lough Erne we came across the ruins of this interesting castle on Tully Point.
Tully Castle had a short life as a residence lasting less than 30 years! It was built by Sir John Hume, a settler from Scotland, between the years 1611 and 1613 and was modelled upon the Scottish style of fortified residences. It's main purpose was defense mostly against attack from the native Irish clans. Around the sturdy house he built a large hundred foot square bawn and positioned defensive towers on each corner.
Unfortunately it was not strong enough to outlast an attack made by Rory Maguire during the 1641 rebellion who struck while the garrison was absent, fighting elsewhere leaving the Humes and the inhabitants of the nearby village without protection. Hume had the villagers take refuge in the castle but to no avail. Once the castle was taken, the Humes' were allowed to leave but the villagers were imprisoned in the cellar area and at some point later the castle was burned with no survivors remaining from the fire.
This tragic event spelled the end of Tully Castle and it was never inhabited again eventually falling into ruin.
However in 1974 a project began and the site was landscaped with the castle rendered safe for public access. A small visitor centre has been set up in an adjacent farm house.
When we visited we took the long somewhat grassy lane up from the main road to a small car park/picnic area and were surprised to find we were alone. This was early August and a decent enough summer's day. One explanation might be is that there is a looped walk available here so a lot of people were probably somewhere along the trail.
After a short walk from the car park a small wooden access gate brings you straight into the castle area and they are very striking ruins indeed. The large expanse of the former bawn is represented by partial remains which are tallest on the Eastern side. The main house has the remains of a North Eastern turret and an entry door in the South side. There is a large chimney block on the East side extending to all floors.The building appears to be T-shaped and three storeys high.
Access to the upper floor is possible and a good stairs has been provided but it can be erratic for times of opening and a sign clearly states it closes at 4PM.
To find the ruins take the A46 from Enniskillen towards Belleek for about 20KM and you will pass a left turn for Churchill (Binmore Rd). Drive on another 400m and you will see a right hand turn signposted for Tully castle. Turn down this road and follow the track (approx. 1.2KM) right to the end where you will find a small car park. It's a short stroll to the castle.
Thursday, 1 August 2024
St. Patrick's Footprint Lullymore Co Kildare
Above Image: Artist's impression of the monastic site
Above Image: Laneway entrance from road
Above Image: Graveyard entrance with stile
Above Image: Grave slab embedded in wall
Above Image: Ancient stone font
Above Image: Footprint marker stone
Above Image: The footprint in the stone.
Above Image: Aerial photo on display board showing graveyard
and ancient enclosure
Above Image: 1798 rebellion memorial
Lullymore, basking in the backwaters of Kildare. A quiet bucolic spot but with plenty of history about it. When I first heard of "St. Patrick's footprint" the engine of the car was already running in anticipation and so on a bright warm day in early may we aimed straight for this site in the lovely county of the Lilywhites.
We understood that the said "footprint" was located in Lullymore East graveyard which in itself is the centre of a huge ancient enclosure which is still partly in evidence by way of surrounding ditches that have been excavated.
When St. Patrick came to Ireland he visited the area of Lullymore and following the conversion of the pagan druid Erc to Christianity he instructed his new convert to found a monastery for scholars which Erc then set about building on an ancient pagan henge that had been familiar to him. The melding of the old ways with the new it would seem.
This monastery founded in the 5th century became quite significant and was sited on an inland island of fertile land 93m above sea level. It was completely surrounded by the peatland of the Bog of Allen making it difficult to attack. But eventually it did fall foul of assailants and came to an end in the late medieval period. The lands were confiscated and came under the ownership of the Earl of Kildare in 1641. Today only remnants from the monastery era remain. No ecclesiastical structures are extant at the site.
When we arrived at the small junction that has a laneway leading up to the graveyard we found the lane was blocked by a large metal gate and some CCTV warning signs were clearly displayed. Not to be put off by this we crossed to the Bog of Allen heritage centre and were advised there that the gate is unlocked and just to "close it after you" So with spirits renewed we followed the instuctions and drove up a long gravel track right to the boundary wall of the graveyard.
We accessed the enclosure by way of an unlocked metal gate although there was a formidable stile available as well.
After a circuit of the interior we came across an ancient font which was a remnant from an early church and now has a permenant position in the graveyard but there was no sign of the "footprint."
We did find embedded in the graveyard wall to the left of the entrance gate one of thirteen known grave markers that existed in the monastery. Eight more are in the wall of a monument back at the entrance to the heritage centre. The final four are lost to the sands of time.
Puzzled by the absence of the rock containing the footprint we eventually searched outside of the graveyard and found it in a small railed area a few yards back along the track. There is a monument beside it detailing its history. Indeed the graveyard also has a detailed board displaying historical info and photos. The said footprint is a foot shaped depression in the top of a large rounded rock and to all intents and ourposes it resembles a bullaun stone as rainwater collects within it.
The only area inaccessible to the public is the adjacent ditch excavation area which is on private property populated by a herd of enthusiastic cows.
Back to the footprint. On measuring our feet against it, it appears to be a size 6!
Outside on the main road opposite the laneway to the graveyard is a memorial to the 1798 rebellion and the significant involvement in it of Captain John Doorly, a Lullymore native. We checked and indeed eight grave slabs have been incorporated into a crescent shaped wall behind the monument stone. The site at Lullymore is well worth a visit and you could also incorporate a visit to the brilliant Bog of Allen heritage centre.
To find Lullymore graveyard take the junction 9a exit from the M7 heading on the R407 for Clane. Follow the signs for 8KM until you enter Clane. In the town take the left hand turn opposite the old church onto the R403. Drive approx. 11KM through the villages of Prosperous and Allenwood. About 1KM further from Allenwood take a left hand turn over a stone bridge crossing the canal onto the R414 signposted for Rathangan. Drive along this road for approx. 3.5KM and you will reach Lullymore. Watch out for a long grey single storey building on your right with a sign for the Bog of Allen nature centre. The laneway to the graveyard is opposite the end of this building. You can park at the gate and take a walk (about 500m) or drive up to the graveyard remembering to close the gate after you on entry and exit. The property here belongs to Lullymore farms ltd.
GPS 53.274995 -6.935464
Wednesday, 3 July 2024
Mountcashel Castle Co Clare
Above Image: South East aspect facing the road
Above Image: North East aspect
Mountcashel Castle or Ballymulcashel Castle as it is sometimes referred to lies in the townland of that name in County Clare. It is believed to have been constructed around 1466AD by the then King of Thomond, Conor O'Brien who died C. 1496.
The castle's history is sketchy but it's resilience down the centuries is plainly evident by it's reasonable condition today. It was certainly inhabited until the early 17th century and later the records of the Ordnance Survey Letters of 1839 state it's condition at that time as being good. So it would appear it did not suffer any exterior damage over the centuries particularly during the Cromwellian invasion nearly two hundred years earlier.
The tower stands high on a rocky base and consists of five storeys. There is a spiral staircase serving all floors positioned in the South Eastern corner.
It would seem that for a time it became uninhabited and fell into disrepair but it was partially restored in the 1960's and was later put up for sale in the summer of 1979. The conditions within the castle were not particularly homely and so more work was later done resulting in another attempt of sale in 2019. The purchase price was a mere 90,000 euros for the castle and the land on which it is sited.
The tower is clearly visible from the roadside but is not i'm afraid open to the public. But you can still get a good view of its exterior.
To find the tower take the junction 5 exit off the N18 onto the R462 signposted for Sixmilebridge and drive approx. 6KM until you reach Sixmilebridge. Continue straight through the town on the R462 for another 3KM and you will see the tower on your left. We parked just beyond the tower at the wall of a farm bungalow. We first visited this castle in 1991 as the first photo above shows. It has not changed much in 30 years.
GPS: 52.768912, -8.776763
Wednesday, 29 May 2024
St. Patrick's Well Blessington Co Wicklow
Above Image: Direction sign at the lane
Above Image: The lane way to the well
Above Image & Below Image: The entrance gate & Steps downward
Above & Below Image: The well
This holy well is one of those I have come across on trips around the country and now and then I like to record them as they can bring focus to local history and of those who availed of them over the centuries.
Immediately of note is the name given to this particular well hidden off the main road in Blessington Whether St. Patrick visited here is long lost in time but the naming of the well must have at least some significance. It is not too far from Burgage which itself has a lot of history attached.
Originally situated in meadowland the well was over the years visited by people in search of hope and perhaps healing from its water. By the nineteenth century it had been upgraded and from 1825 provided a supply of water to the town for a good number of years. The townland is known as Millbank and a corn mill had once stood nearby but with the coming of the reservoir and dam at Poulaphuca it was submerged by the waters and the road leading to it closed off by a barrier.
The well became overgrown with some rough steps and a dangerous wall until in 2004 a joint operation between some like-minded locals led by Aidan Cruise and the Electricity Supply Board resulted in the restoration of the well, the steps and brand new supporting walls. It was finally made accessible to all but still remains hidden off the main road. A quick study of some local mapping led us to the old lane and the metal entrance gate. There is a commerorative sign on the wall outside and a set of steps down to the alcove in which the well lies. It is a quiet and reflective spot here and not too far from the lake. I am led to believe that it was the victim of some vandalism a while back some time after our visit and it also appears the access lane is on the cards for some upgrading by the Council. So I would be interested to know if it is still currently accessible.
To find the well take the N81 West from Tallaght towards Blessington (approx 12 miles). Drive through the Town until you have passed the tower of St. Mary's church on your left then take the next left hand turn onto Kilbride Road. Drive approx 150 metres until you see a sign on your right pointing to the well. The road splits here on the right with the old abandoned lane sloping downwards and the well entrance on the right hand side. We parked on the road just above the lane entrance.