Old Dunlewey Church Co Donegal

                         Above Image: The church with the slopes of Errigal Mountain

                                               Above Image: The entrance gate

                                           Above Image: The great East window

                                                  Above Image: The bell tower

                                    Above Image: Entrance door (from the interior)

                                           Above Image: Entrance door (exterior)

                                                  Above Image: Church interior

                                   Above Image: View of the Lough from the church

                                        Above Image: Gated access to tower stairs

The story behind the striking church ruin at Dunlewey began with James Russell a merchant in London who made a fortune from his commercial dealings in hops. Russell had married Jane Smith in 1835 and decided that with his wealth they would live a peaceful life in the wilds of Donegal. He set about purchasing the Dunlewey estate and lived quite happily there with Jane until his untimely death in 1848. His wife bereft of the love of her life commissioned the building of a church at the head of Dunlewey Lough in the shadow of the great Errigal mountain. Her husband was interred in a vault below its floor and when the church was finally finished in 1853 it was consecrated as a chapel of ease. 

Throughout the subsequent decades the local community diminished and the church began its decline as well. In 1955 the roof was removed as it had become dangerous and the church was stripped of its assets which were distributed to other community churches. 

Some renovation work was carried out in the late 1980's and finally twenty years later some enterprising people carried out additional work to preserve the church from deteriorating further.

The church sits at the top of the Lough affording a commanding and beautiful view. A long narrow and uneven boreen leads down from a secondary road into the valley of the Poisoned Glen. Here at the end of the boreen the graveyard is situated containing the church ruins. A gate allows access to a well kept graveyard and the main entrance doorway is on the Western aspect overlooking the lakeside. A couple of solid but worn steps leads into the former entrance porch below the church tower and a gated up set of steps accesses the ground level of the tower. Beyond the porch lies the rectangular expanse of the interior now open to the elements. Some of the walls still contain traces of the plasterwork but little else remains apart from the interred body of john Russell underfoot.

I have wanted to visit this ruin for a long time and finally was afforded the chance this year. It is a bit out of the way but worth every mile to get there. As I am sure others experienced I felt a serious sense of peacefulness here. Sitting on one of the stone benches to the side of the church I was lost in the serenity of the place. What the ruin lacks in features it exudes tenfold in atmosphere.

The church is adjacent to the ominous sounding Poisoned Glen where you can take a ramble and embrace its terrible beauty. Legend has it that in ancient times the Giant, Balor, King of Tory Island, followed the kidnapper of his beautiful daughter here and that a battle took place between the two in which Balor's eye was split and oozed out a molasses like liquid which poisoned the glen forever. Truth be told it is thought that a more likely explanation of the origin of the glen's name was the misspelling of the word Neamh which means "heavenly" for the word Neimhe which means "poison". Somehow I think heavenly glen describes it better with its stark but beautiful views of the mountains.

To find the ruin take the N56 heading East from the bridge in Gweedore and drive approx 3.7KM where you will see a right turn onto the R251 for Dunlewey. Drive approx 4.6KM and you will spot a slip road to the right with a sign for The Poisoned Glen. Take this slip road which is narrow and after about 1KM you will see the church ruin on your right. There is room outside the gate to park. 

GPS  55.019341,  -8.111128

Tully Castle Co Fermanagh

                                                  Above Image: The entry gate

                                                    

                                        Above and Below Image: The entry door

                                       Above Image: Inner stairs to first floor level

                                                    Above Image: Upper level

                                  Above Image: View of bawn and South facing wall

                                  Above Image: Remains of South East bawn tower

                                          Above Image: Remnants at East wall

                                        Above Image: Remains of the bawn walls

                                     Above Image: Remains of North East turret

On a recent trip to County Donegal we found ourselves driving through the Northern county of Fermanagh and while alongside the Southern shore of Lough Erne we came across the ruins of this interesting castle on Tully Point.
Tully Castle had a short life as a residence lasting less than 30 years! It was built by Sir John Hume, a settler from Scotland, between the years 1611 and 1613 and was modelled upon the Scottish style of fortified residences. It's main purpose was defense mostly against attack from the native Irish clans. Around the sturdy house he built a large hundred foot square bawn and positioned defensive towers on each corner.
Unfortunately it was not strong enough to outlast an attack made by Rory Maguire during the 1641 rebellion who struck while the garrison was absent, fighting elsewhere leaving the Humes and the inhabitants of the nearby village without protection. Hume had the villagers take refuge in the castle but to no avail. Once the castle was taken, the Humes' were allowed to leave but the villagers were imprisoned in the cellar area and at some point later the castle was burned with no survivors remaining from the fire.
This tragic event spelled the end of Tully Castle and it was never inhabited again eventually falling into ruin.
However in 1974 a project began and the site was landscaped with the castle rendered safe for public  access. A small visitor centre has been set up in an adjacent farm house.
When we visited we took the long somewhat grassy lane up from the main road to a small car park/picnic area and were surprised to find we were alone. This was early August and a decent enough summer's day. One explanation might be is that there is a looped walk available here so a lot of people were probably somewhere along the trail.
After a short walk from the car park a small wooden access gate brings you straight into the castle area and they are very striking ruins indeed. The large expanse of the former bawn is represented by partial remains which are tallest on the Eastern side. The main house has the remains of a North Eastern turret and an entry door in the South side. There is a large chimney block on the East side extending to all floors.The building appears to be T-shaped and three storeys high.

Access to the upper floor is possible and a good stairs has been provided but it can be erratic for times of opening and a sign clearly states it closes at 4PM.
 

To find the ruins take the A46 from Enniskillen towards Belleek for about 20KM and you will pass a left turn for Churchill (Binmore Rd). Drive on another 400m and you will see a right hand turn signposted for Tully castle. Turn down this road and follow the track (approx. 1.2KM) right to the end where you will find a small car park. It's a short stroll to the castle.

St. Patrick's Footprint Lullymore Co Kildare

                               Above Image: Artist's impression of the monastic site

                                       Above Image: Laneway entrance from road

                                       Above Image: Graveyard entrance with stile

                                       Above Image: Grave slab embedded in wall

                                              Above Image: Ancient stone font 

                                             Above Image: Footprint marker stone

                                        Above Image: The footprint in the stone.

                        Above Image: Aerial photo on display board showing graveyard 

                                                and ancient enclosure

                                          Above Image: 1798 rebellion memorial

 

Lullymore, basking in the backwaters of Kildare. A quiet bucolic spot but with plenty of history about it. When I first heard of "St. Patrick's footprint" the engine of the car was already running in anticipation and so on a bright warm day in early may we aimed straight for this site in the lovely county of the Lilywhites.
We understood that the said "footprint" was located in Lullymore East graveyard which in itself is the centre of a huge ancient enclosure which is still partly in evidence by way of surrounding ditches that have been excavated.
When St. Patrick came to Ireland he visited the area of Lullymore and following the conversion of the pagan druid Erc to Christianity he instructed his new convert to found a monastery for scholars which Erc then set about building on an ancient pagan henge that had been familiar to him. The melding of the old ways with the new it would seem.
This monastery founded in the 5th century became quite significant and was sited on an inland island of fertile land 93m above sea level. It was completely surrounded by the peatland of the Bog of Allen making it difficult to attack. But eventually it did fall foul of assailants and came to an end in the late medieval period. The lands were confiscated and came under the ownership of the Earl of Kildare in 1641. Today only remnants from the monastery era remain. No ecclesiastical structures are extant at the site.
When we arrived at the small junction that has a laneway leading up to the graveyard we found the lane was blocked by a large metal gate and some CCTV warning signs were clearly displayed. Not to be put off by this we crossed to the Bog of Allen heritage centre and were advised there that the gate is unlocked and just to "close it after you"  So with spirits renewed we followed the instuctions and drove up a long gravel track right to the boundary wall of the graveyard.
We accessed the enclosure by way of an unlocked metal gate although there was a formidable stile available as well.
After a circuit of the interior we came across an ancient font which was a remnant from an early church and now has a permenant position in the graveyard but there was no sign of the "footprint."
We did find embedded in the graveyard wall to the left of the entrance gate one of thirteen known grave markers that existed in the monastery. Eight more are in the wall of a monument back at the entrance to the heritage centre. The final four are lost to the sands of time.
Puzzled by the absence of the rock containing the footprint we eventually searched outside of the graveyard and found it in a small railed area a few yards back along the track. There is a monument beside it detailing its history. Indeed the graveyard also has a detailed board displaying historical info and photos. The said footprint is a foot shaped depression in the top of a large rounded rock and to all intents and ourposes it resembles a bullaun stone as rainwater collects within it.
The only area inaccessible to the public is the adjacent ditch excavation area which is on private property populated by a herd of enthusiastic cows.
Back to the footprint. On measuring our feet against it, it appears to be a size 6!
Outside on the main road opposite the laneway to the graveyard is a memorial to the 1798 rebellion and the significant involvement in it of Captain John Doorly, a Lullymore native. We checked and indeed eight grave slabs have been incorporated into a crescent shaped wall behind the monument stone. The site at Lullymore is well worth a visit and you could also incorporate a visit to the brilliant Bog of Allen heritage centre.

To find Lullymore graveyard take the junction 9a exit from the M7 heading on the R407 for Clane. Follow the signs for 8KM until you enter Clane. In the town take the left hand turn opposite the old church onto the R403. Drive approx. 11KM through the villages of  Prosperous and Allenwood. About 1KM further from Allenwood take a left hand turn over a stone bridge crossing the canal onto the R414 signposted for Rathangan. Drive along this road for approx. 3.5KM and you will reach Lullymore. Watch out for a long grey single storey building on your right with a sign for the Bog of Allen nature centre. The laneway to the graveyard is opposite the end of this building. You can park at the gate and take a walk (about 500m) or drive up to the graveyard remembering to close the gate after you on entry and exit. The property here belongs to Lullymore farms ltd.


GPS   53.274995  -6.935464

Mountcashel Castle Co Clare

 

                                   Above Image: South East aspect facing the road

                                               Above Image: North East aspect

 

Mountcashel Castle or Ballymulcashel Castle as it is sometimes referred to lies in the townland of that name in County Clare. It is believed to have been constructed around 1466AD by the then King of Thomond, Conor O'Brien who died C. 1496.
The castle's history is sketchy but it's resilience down the centuries is plainly evident by it's reasonable condition today. It was certainly inhabited until the early 17th century and later the records of the Ordnance Survey Letters of 1839 state it's condition at that time as being good. So it would appear it did not suffer any exterior damage over the centuries particularly during the Cromwellian invasion nearly two hundred years earlier.
The tower stands high on a rocky base and consists of five storeys. There is a spiral staircase serving all floors positioned in the South Eastern corner. 

It would seem that for a time it became uninhabited and fell into disrepair but it was partially restored in the 1960's and was later put up for sale in the summer of 1979. The conditions within the castle were not particularly homely and so more work was later done resulting in another attempt of sale in 2019. The purchase price was a mere 90,000 euros for the castle and the land on which it is sited.
The tower is clearly visible from the roadside but is not i'm afraid open to the public. But you can still get a good view of its exterior.
To find the tower take the junction 5 exit off the N18 onto the R462 signposted for Sixmilebridge and drive approx. 6KM until you reach Sixmilebridge. Continue straight through the town on the R462 for another 3KM and you will see the tower on your left. We parked just beyond the tower at the wall of a farm bungalow. We first visited this castle in 1991 as the first photo above shows. It has not changed much in 30 years.

GPS:  52.768912,  -8.776763

St. Patrick's Well Blessington Co Wicklow

 

                                        Above Image: Direction sign at the lane

                                          Above Image: The lane way to the well

                    Above Image & Below Image: The entrance gate & Steps downward

                                              Above & Below Image: The well

This holy well is one of those I have come across on trips around the country and now and then I like to record them as they can bring focus to local history and of those who availed of them over the centuries.
Immediately of note is the name given to this particular well hidden off the main road in Blessington  Whether St. Patrick visited here is long lost in time but the naming of the well must have at least some significance. It is not too far from Burgage which itself has a lot of history attached. 

Originally situated in meadowland the well was over the years visited by people in search of hope and perhaps healing from its water. By the nineteenth century it had been upgraded and from 1825 provided a supply of water to the town for a good number of years. The townland is known as Millbank and a corn mill had once stood nearby but with the coming of the reservoir and dam at Poulaphuca it was submerged by the waters and the road leading to it closed off by a barrier.
 

The well became overgrown with some rough steps and a dangerous wall until in 2004 a joint operation between some like-minded locals led by Aidan Cruise and the Electricity Supply Board resulted in the restoration of the well, the steps and brand new supporting walls. It was finally made accessible to all but still remains hidden off the main road. A quick study of some local mapping led us to the old lane and the metal entrance gate. There is a commerorative sign on the wall outside and a set of steps down to the alcove in which the well lies. It is a quiet and reflective spot here and not too far from the lake. I am led to believe that it was the victim of some vandalism a while back some time after our visit and it also appears the access lane is on the cards for some upgrading by the Council. So I would be interested to know if it is still currently accessible.
 

To find the well take the N81 West from Tallaght towards Blessington (approx 12 miles). Drive through the Town until you have passed the tower of St. Mary's church on your left then take the next left hand turn onto Kilbride Road. Drive approx 150 metres until you see a sign on your right pointing to the well. The road splits here on the right with the old abandoned lane sloping downwards and the well entrance on the right hand side. We parked on the road just above the lane entrance.

O'Connell's Rock Co Dublin

 

                          Above Image: The site of the rock (In greenery on the right)

                                                   Above Image: The inscription.

 

                  ****************************************************************************

                        

 

                         O'CONNELL'S BIRTHPLACE CAHERSIVEEN CO. KERRY

 

                                          Above Image: Ruins of Carhan House

                                        Above Image: Memorial bust of O'Connell

West of Glencullen nestled amongst the vegetation at the foot of a forest on a road skirting the Glendhu Valley is a large misshapen boulder known as O'Connells's Rock. The rock bears an inscription including the date "23rd July 1823" and commemorates the spot where Daniel O'Connell the great Liberator made an early speech to the local community while on a visit to his daughter who was married to a local landowner. A large group of people it seems were celebrating Garland Sunday (in anticipation of harvest time) and so O'Connell seized the moment and climbed up upon the huge rock and spoke to the crowd of his oncoming crusade for the liberation of Catholics and a repeal to the 1801 act of union.
O'Connell was born in 1775 just outside Cahersiveen in County Kerry and while there last summer we visited the memorial garden and saw the ruins of his birthplace (Carhan house, built 1770)
On his personal crusade he organised what would be known popularly as "Monster meetings" with one of the largest taking place at the Hill of Tara in County Meath with an incredible three quarters of a million attendees. Borne out of his repeal movement emancipation was achieved in 1829 but he unfortunately died in Genoa in 1843 with the act of union still in place and an Irish parliament for Irish people unachieved.
O'Connell's rock is easily accessible and was unknown to me until recently. A 15 minute drive from my home brought me to this mostly overlooked historical site and I was glad I sought it out. There are many hiking trails around this area and many thousands of people must have stopped on their way to have a look. In exploring this area over the years I must have driven by several times and not considered it any different from many other rocks strewn around what was once a glacial valley. There are probably many more interesting sites I have yet to discover in this particular area. And I look forward to doing so.
To find O'Connell's Rock follow this route. The easiest direction is from the crossroads at Johnnie Fox's pub in Glencullen heading West on the Ballybrack Road (R116). Drive a little over 4KM until you see a field gate entrance to a driveway on your left with a sign stating Glendhu Farm. The rock is directly opposite this gate a couple of metres back from the roadside. There is really no safe place to park on this road except at the farm entrance gate but it can't be blocked either so be prepared to move quickly. We had enough time to examine the rock but as we were leaving a land river pulled up to enter the gate so bear that in mind.

GPS:   53°13'58.7"N 6°16'35.0"W

St Maelruan's Tower & Monastery Site Co Dublin

 

                                            Above Image: View from main gate

                                        Above Image: Exterior steps to first floor

                                        Above Image: Granite cross West facing.

                                          Above Image: Granite cross East facing.

 

                                       Above & Below Images: St Maelruan's Losset

                       Above Image: Part of the remains of the monastery embankment

                         Above Image: Tallaght Castle now incorporated into the priory

 

There is an abundance of history in and around the village of Tallaght and the Dominican priory at it's centre is the tail end of almost 1300 years of ecclesiastical history in the village which began in 769AD with the foundation of a monastery by St. Maelruan. In 1223 the Archbishop commissioned a palace to be built which in 1329 fortified against attack from the Wicklow clans. A tall castle tower was also constructed for further protection. The monastery slowly deteriorated over the years until in 1720 the then Archbishop had all but the castle tower torn down and a new Archbishops residence built. The castle tower now is the only remaining construct of the old site and has been incorporated into the current priory buildings.
Adjacent to the monastery site lies the church of St Maelruan which was constructed in 1829 by the board of first fruits and standing beside it is the tower of the non-extant medieval parish church. The tower stands four stories high with an external stairs leading to the first floor. Within, a spiral stairs reaches to the other floors. The third floor has a vaulted ceiling and above it a bell cote. The interior of the tower is generally not open to view.
Within the church grounds left of the main gate are a couple of remnants from the old monastic site. The first is the 60" wide St. Maelruan's Losset. It was probably named so as it's shape rembles that of an old wooden utensil for kneading bread. This granite losset was more than likely originally a font. The second item is just South of the Losset and is a 36" high granite cross on a circular base with an arm width of approx 22". Local lore is that it marks St. Maelruans burial spot.
As an aside, part of the old fosse embankment belonging to the monastery is still visible from the car park of the retail area behind the church. I eventually located it between DID electrical and Smyth's Toys. A small OPW plaque had been placed to mark it but had been moved further down by the property management just causing confusion. But eventually I informed them of it's relation to the monastery and they seemed surprised but said they would move it back. The tower of the Tallaght castle can be seen from the private car park of the retreat house in the priory grounds. We entered not by the main gate to the priory but through the side gate down the laneway on the Eastern boundary. We didn't meet any opposition to us photographing it and our visit was brief.

To find the site take the N81 towards Tallaght and upon reaching the junction with Old Bawn Road (R113) turn right into the village. Continue straight on through the next two sets of traffic lights and you will find the church gates on your left just past Fanagan's funeral home. You can park safely enough just outside the gate.