Above & Below Images: Entrance gate & trail to ruins
Above Image: First view
Above Image: West gable entrance
Above Image: The sedelia
Above Image: West gable interior
Above Image: East gable interior
Above Image & 2 Images Below: Cantwell Fada
Above Image: entrance to tower vaulted chamber
Above Image & 2 Images Below: interior of vaulted chamber
Above Image: Steps to first floor
Above 2 Images First floor
Above Image: A view upwards through the tower
Above Image: Steps to top of tower
Above Image: Second level without floor
Above Image: View of the sedelia from the top
Above Image: View of Church below
Above Image: twin bellcote
Above Image: Part of a sundial?
This one has been on my list for some time now and I finally had the opportunity to make a visit this year..
Kilfane Church is a medieval parish church more than likely
constructed in the early fourteenth century. It incorporates a Norman
tower and some notable features one of which is most unusual.
The Church is hidden away from the road shielded by trees
but is accessed by a pillared metal gate at the roadside. A short track leads to
it and is adjacent to a private house in which the back garden contains a
couple of loudly barking dogs but they are of no danger to the visitor. The
Church sits in a walled enclosure and a small metal gate allows easy access to
the site. It is a long rectangular structure with its main entry on the
West gable. There are three other doorways in the North and South walls. Below
the window in the East gable are the remains of an altar and beside it in the
South wall is a sedelia or priest’s seat which according to the information
board outside is thought to have been part of an earlier Church and actually still
contains traces of medieval paint. There are also some plain recesses for
holding a book and some statues .Of course I have up to now avoided the
elephant in the room and I refer of course to the Cantwell fada (or long
Cantwell). This 8 feet tall effigy of a knight crusader stands upright within
the Church and seems to stare at you as you enter the doorway On approaching it really stretches in height. It is deemed to be the most interesting and tallest effigy in
both Ireland and indeed Britain and depicts a knight in chain mail and
protective helmet holding a shield close to him which bears the Cantwell family
crest. The Cantwells were one of the original families involved in the Norman
Invasion of Ireland and were honoured for their service by being made Lords of
Kilfane. The effigy is thought to date to around 1320 which leads historians to
believe that it depicts Thomas Cantwell who died in that year. Interestingly
the feet are turned inward and a local which we met at the site said that this
was to indicate that he had died in battle but I’m not entirely sure that this is
the case. The effigy is a striking piece of medieval work and is worth your
time in itself to make the trip to Kilfane. I’ve only ever seen one other effigy on my
travels and that was of Piers Oge Butler (d. 1526AD) and that was laid atop a
tomb in Kilcooley Abbey in Co Tipperary (See post here).
But all this good stuff does not end here. On the Eastern
end of the Church is the Norman tower. This is likely to have served as both
the sacristy and a place of residence for the priests. A doorway leads into the
lower vaulted chamber a dark and brooding place if ever there was one. Out of
this chamber a set of worn stone steps leads upward to the first floor which
contains like the vaulted chamber, a large fireplace. There is a very tangible
atmosphere here of desolation aided and abetted by the constant shrieks of
birds hiding in the innards of the tower and flying overhead. Indeed mind your
step on these stairs as pigeons seem to tuck themselves close into the steps
and are not at least put out by feet tramping close to them. One wrong footing
and you could be in trouble. In the South East corner of the first floor a very
narrow stone spiral stairs leads further upward. An entry to another floor
which was probably wooden and now missing is gated for safety but you can
continue on up to what would have been roof level. This is unfortunately also
gated now and I can see why by how exposed the roof is but still the view both
down on the Church below and of the Kilkenny landscape is excellent from this
location. The tower also acted as a bell tower and there is a twin bellcote at
roof level.
So after a careful descent and with a nod to the knight
we left Kilfane all the better for the visit. There is a lot to see in this
area which will be covered in future posts but in the meantime do check out
this remarkable ruin.
To find the ruin and Mr Cantwell take the M9 heading
South and exit at Junction 7 and at the top of the exit ramp take the left hand
exit for the R448 (signposted for Thomastown). Continue straight through the
next roundabout and on the subsequent roundabout turn right on to the continuance
of the R448. Continue on through the villages of Gowran and Dungarvan and
approx. 4.5KM out of Dungarvan you will pass the Long Man restaurant & bar
on your right. Approx 100m past this on your left is a turn signposted for
Kilfane Church. You will find the entrance gate to the track up to the ruin is
400 m down this narrow road on your right hand side. The gate is directly
opposite a more modern church of Ireland church and there is room to park at gate
leading to the ruins.
Wow. Now I want to go there.
ReplyDeleteI am stunned that the effigy is just propped up against a wall. Great to see it in its original location... to have to go and hunt for it. A bit sad to think of how the weather will treat it.
Hi M Harold, Yes it really is surprising that the weather hasn't taken its toll. Although it is off the beaten track it is not difficult to find. Hope you get an opportunity to visit!
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