Thursday, 17 January 2013

Kilcooley Abbey Co Tipperary




                                           Above Image: The entrance gate





                                 Above Image: Close up of the Dog at the feet of
                                                        the Knight

                                       Above Image: The tomb of the Knight

                                               Above Image: A Dovecote?





                                   Above Image: One of the fine carved walls

                                              Above Image: The Church



                               Above Image: Part of one of the Ambulatory pillars

                            Above Image: One of the buttresses on the Church wall

                                          Above Image: An upper floor room.

                                 Above Image: The knight's effigy with worn face.


                                          Above Image: The baptismal font

                           Above Image: Stairs leading to upper floor (now locked)



                              Above Image: The decorative entrance hall ceiling

                                      Above Image: The mysterious pyramid



                                      Above Image: Exterior of the infirmary



                                      Above Image: Part of the infirmary interior



                                    Above Image: Another part of the infirmary


First let me say that although there was a slight disappointment with one aspect of these ruins which I will cover later, they were still one of the most remarkable places we have visited.
The Abbey was founded for the Cistercians in 1182AD when the lands were granted to them by Donal Mor O'Brien. It became one of the three great Abbeys in the area, the other two being Jerpoint and Holy Cross. It would have been in use at least until the dissolution of Abbeys in the 1500's and it now sits hidden away on the lands of the Kilcooley estate.
We were really looking forward to seeing these ruins although we were a little apprehensive about them being located on a private estate but as we approached we found the great gates of the estate open and a sign pointing toward a more modern Church also on these lands situated a short way down the driveway.
We drove down taking a sharp right bend to avoid another set of gates leading directly to the actual estate house. The lane way narrows after the new Church and then you pass through another set of open gates. This is when you get your first view of Kilcooley Abbey. I have to say I was taken aback by how defined it looked against the backdrop of the trees.
On the route across the meadow to the ruins you pass by a curious beehive shaped structure which may or not have been a dovecote or pigeon house used by the former monks. Also more mysteriously on the land adjacent to the estate house and opposite the new Church is a strange pyramid shaped structure set against what looks to be a gable end of an ancient Church.What significance it has is a mystery, a memorial perhaps?
On reaching the Abbey  we walked around the entire exterior which seemed to have a wire fence preventing entry but eventually we found an entrance gate which although closed over was unlocked with an open padlock dangling from it (We later discovered that the OPW leave this gate unlocked for likely visitors during as they say reasonable daylight hours.) From the moment we walked in we knew this was going to be something special.
The Abbey consists of a large entrance hall, a church, a tower and a sacristy along with some residential buildings and an adjacent infirmary. In the entrance hall there is a nicely carved baptismal font and some amazing decorative ceiling design. As you look in from the gate the archways diminish into the distance giving great depth to the Abbey.
Strolling around these ruins gives you a great sense of how it was in the daily lives of those stationed here
The abbey being off the beaten path lay silent and we found ourselves wandering around alone. I found it to exude a very calm ambiance and even though we split up and I often found myself alone I never got any bad vibes such as those experienced in say Athassel Abbey (see post here) where there was always a feeling of being observed. Parts of Kilcooley Abbey are still stone roofed, such as the nave most of the remainder are open to the elements. The Church has two great arched windows on either end and a remarkable tomb bearing the remains of the Knight, Piers Oge Butler (d. 1526AD). The image of the Knight with a faithful hound lying at his feet is marred only by the worn away features of his face. The carved design on the side of the tomb depicting ten of the twelve apostles are carved by the then well known Rory O'Tunney who is also recognised for his fine work on Jerpoint Abbey
Between the sacristy and the south transept stands a wall with numerous interesting carvings including a depiction of the crucifixion. It is just amazing how much decoration is on display within these walls.
The ambulatory outside is missing almost all of the fine pillars that surrounded it but there is a nice walkway around a grassy area overlooked by the tower which on a fine day is a suntrap. Here there are also two huge buttresses supporting one of the Church walls which are positioned in such a way that you can comfortably lean  back against them and bask a little in the sunshine.
Adjacent to the Abbey are the ruins of what was once the infirmary. This is a dim and shadowy building and here unlike the Abbey the atmosphere felt  a little uncomfortable.
Of course with all this fine stonework and amazing ruins there has to be some downside and this comes in the form of some restricted access. Parts of the ground floor rooms and the upper rooms and tower have been sadly locked by the OPW and are inaccessible due to insurance issues. You can climb up the steps but only peer into one of the upper rooms. Nevertheless don't be put off by these restrictions as these are exceptional ruins for a visit and there is still so much to see. The Abbey, in its secluded spot is the lesser visited and least advertised but is a must if in the area. Not surprisingly parts have been utilised by the film industry in the past for such films as "Catholics" (1973) and "Excalibur" (1981).
To find Kilcooly Abbey, from the M8 take the junction 4 exit for the R693 and drive for approx 400m then taking a right hand turn at the roundabout onto the R639 for Urlingford. Drive through the main street and take a left turn onto the R689 (Togher Rd). About 2.5KM later you will reach a crossroads. Go straight through and drive again for approx 1.5KM where you will reach a sharp bend to the right. Continue on for 500m and you will see the large gates for Kilcooley estate on your left. Once through the gates just follow the driveway down until you have passed the new Church on your right. Continue on down the lane and you will spot the Abbey on your left.You can park at the edge of the meadow.

Wednesday, 9 January 2013

Old Kilbarrack Church Co Dublin





                                    Above Image: The fenced west facing side


                                 Above Image Part of the walled up central gable



This small unassuming coastal ruin was once of some importance to mariners as a place of succour following shipwrecks and maritime accidents.
It is thought to have been constructed in the 13th century and was at one time under the auspices of St. Mary's Abbey. Some records refer to it as "The Church of Mone"
Being built to assist mariners would account for its close proximity to the sea and for a long time all ships entering the bay in Dublin were subject to a duty which was passed on to aid in the maintenance of the Church. Seafarers being aware of the importance of this service would not likely to have been reticent to pay a small fee.
We came across these ruins entirely by accident on our way out to visit St Mary's Abbey in Howth and so decided to make a stop on the way back to take a closer look. Like many of these small Church ruins dotted around the country a great many go unnoticed by passers-by but after a period of time ruin hunting you seem to gain a bit of a keen eye for spotting them in your peripheral vision! This is a case in point as the structure lies on some raised ground within a walled cemetery and we only spotted part of it briefly jutting up over the boundary wall as we drove past. The ruins, accessed by a gate on the main road, are rectangular in shape with an East gable, central gable (now blocked up), a nave a chancel and an exposed West end which now has a large railed fence placed where the Western gable stood. I'm not sure of the significance of this railing other than to maybe protect some of the ornamental headstones lying within.
The foundations beneath this Church are believed to be considerably older as this area was originally the site of a Hermitage occupied by a Holy man called Bearog from which it is thought the name Kilbarrack evolves. (Cill Bearog or Church of Bearog)
The old burial ground contains the remains of some notable figures such as the so called "Sham Squire", Francis Higgins, who forged an upwardly mobile career through devious and unprincipled methods in the late 1700's and also Eoghan O'Neill the founder of the Gaelic League. The grounds are still used for burials to this day. Brendan Behan the great Irish writer referred to Kilbarrack cemetery in "The Borstal Boy" as "The healthiest graveyard in the country because it is so close to the sea"!
The Church would have commanded a fine view of the bay in its time and the sandbanks would have run quite close to it. Now the coast road divides it from the sea but it is still easy to imagine this being a windswept spot with the tide sweeping small boats inland carrying mariners in distress.
The Church appears to have fallen into ruin sometime after the dissolution of Churches and was indeed recorded as being overgrown with weeds in the 1837 topographical dictionary of Dublin.Worth a visit if you happen to find yourself in the area.
To find The Church of Mone, take the R807 from Dublin City towards Howth. About 6KM along you will pass a junction on your left with the R104 (Kilbarrack Rd). 200m further along you will see the boundary wall on your left. this is the graveyard containing the ruins. The pathway and road outside are wide enough for short stay parking.

Monday, 31 December 2012

Moone Mill Co Kildare



                                    Above Image: Lost in a swirl of branches



                                               Above Image: Riverside view




Situated near the village of Moone this once grandiose corn mill exists now for the most part as only a huge hollow shell.
It was constructed on the estate of Belan House, the great home of the Earls of Aldborough, the Stratfords who came to Ireland in the 17th century. The house was built upon over the years becoming one of the largest gabled houses in the country with fine gardens containing follies such as a temple and obelisks.
The mansion was largely built from the ruins of the Fitzgerald Castle which stood on this site but was destroyed in 1641. Indeed the site was originally employed by St Patrick in the 5th century for the foundation of a church and a holy well. The well still exists today.
The decline of the great house began in the 1820's when the fourth Earl, embroiled in gambling debts, mortgaged the house and let it fall into disrepair. Most of the worthwhile parts of the estate were sold over subsequent years finding new homes in other great houses and upon the death of the sixth Earl the title diminished. The great abode became still and silently and slowly decayed. Now today only the remains of the stables and some of the follies remain.
The only successful part of the estate was the corn mill owned by Ebenezer Shackleton, uncle of the famous explorer Ernest Shackleton, who resided in Belan lodge. The mill was probably constructed in the late 18th or early 19th century and Shackleton was running it successfully in the 1820's, producing an average of 15000 bags of flour yearly. It was noted for having one of the deepest and longest millraces in the country.
Today the ruins can be seen on a bend in the road en route to Moone Abbey. There are various "No Trespassing"  signs and the large gates remain closed. There is an occupied lodge just within the gates but no one was visible on our visit to ask about access so we will return here again and seek possible further entry. We did manage to get an obscured view by way of a narrow lane adjacent but this too had a private property sign. There is also a good side view from the bridge crossing the river a few yards away. It is a shame we could not get closer as this is truly a magnificent ruin. Also as an aside just a few yards away on the opposite side of the road you can spot the ruins of Moone Castle now walled into a private grounds and sporting a very large and very vocal dog!
To find Moone Mill ruins, take the M9 southbound exiting at junction 3 for the N78. Turn left at the top of the exit and drive until you reach a T-Junction with the R448. Turn right here and pass through the village of Timolin and on into Moone village. At the end of the village opposite the Post Office is a right hand turn through a tall pillared gateway, this is Belan Avenue, once an entrance to the estate. Continue on until you take a sharp left bend and you will spot the ruins about 500 feet ahead of you.

Sunday, 23 December 2012

The Druid's Judgement Seat Co Dublin


                                        Above Image: Remains of a cairn




                                     Above Image: More remains of a Cairn

                                           Above Image: The entrance path

                                           Above Image: The entrance gate


                                     Above Image: Up close view of the seat





Located in a small secluded wood in leafy Killiney this often overlooked oddity is a really interesting find.
The name "Druid's Judgement Seat" as it is referred to probably stems from the very prolific Druidical history in this area but it unlikely that this chair ever seated a Druid as it is believed to be a Victorian folly. Some historians believe it could be genuine but most will wave you away with their hand if broached on the subject.
Folly or not it is a genuinely strange monument. It is surrounded in this area by several large stones which are the ruins of three recorded Bronze Age Cairns that stood here. It appears that stones were raided from these to construct the Seat leaving some true historical monuments bereft of importance. It is also thought that the Cairns were surrounded by a Stone Circle which would most certainly have had some importance to local Druids. Indeed there are quite a few odd looking rocks strewn around this area which could give credence to this.
The little copse surrounded by trees is so secluded that even the decorated footpath leading up to the trees looks like part of the landscaping of the verges of nearby houses. A short walk up this pathway leads you to  a small open gate and directly into this small  historical quarter. Some cleaning up of the undergrowth and weeding done in the past seems to reversing as the area sadly looks to be drifting back to an overgrown state. The Seat is located at the far end from the entrance and provides a great photo opportunity for anyone caring to sit upon it. Even though there are nearby houses it is so quiet and secretive here.
There is a similar type of seat called "The Brehon's Chair" in Taylors Grange Co Dublin but this has now been ensconced into a gated community as some sort of centrepiece and is not as easy to access. This  annoying practise by construction companies has occurred at several other interesting sites. Personally I think that the Killiney Seat is the better of the two anyway. We have Visited the Killiney site on several occasions and have never met another soul but I am sure there are many who would be interested in visiting even though it is not featured on many maps.
Tho find The Druid's Judgement Seat take the M50 Southbound and exit at Junction 16 onto the R118. Drive straight through the next roundabout and past the junction with Wyattville Rd. At the next junction there is a  right hand turn onto Moorefield. Turn here and take the immediate left onto Killiney Avenue. You will reach a small roundabout. Turn right and follow this road all the way until you reach a T- Junction. Turn left and a few yards on park at the kerbside opposite Killiney Heath which is on your right. You will spot the little pathway leading up the grass verge on the right hand side.

Saturday, 15 December 2012

St. Saviours Church Co Wicklow

                                    Above Image: The entrance gate to the trail





                        Above Image: Look closely to see some calcite stalactites


                                    Above Image: Nestled in a beautiful vale


                                    Above Image: The great Romanesque arch





St Saviours Church was constructed in the 12th century and then again in the19th century! Read on and all will be revealed.....
The Church consisting of a Nave and Chancel was constructed around the time of St Laurence O'Toole's Abbacy, probably the late 1150's. It was built as an Augustinian friary and probably thrived until the dissolution of Abbeys in the 1500's. By the 1800's it was in a very poor state with its central arch collapsed and it fortunately found itself falling into the brief of the restoration of the Glendalough monastic site by the Commission for Public Works in the 1870's. The Reconstruction was done using original stones and sketches of the Church and regardless of this factor it is still a fine example of Romanesque design and is to this day still the subject of some further Restoration as the mortar used in the 1870's is slowly destroying the stonework with calcite.
The Church is one of the nearby ruins to the main Glendalough site and is easily accessible. From the main car park you cross the river and take the trail to the left and eventually you will spot the ruins far down the slope from the trail on your left hand side. A nicely latched wooden gate is a few feet down from the trail and this allows you access down the slope on a five minute trek through some fairly bushy undergrowth to a copse near the river. It would be advisable to visit on a dry day as this slope could become muddy and quite slippery in or after rainfall. Nestled below in the clearing are the ruins and  how interesting they are too. A small stone stile and a few steps give you access to the Church. The fine central arch within has three orders and some really intricate stonework, while the  window facing East has some fine carvings including birds, a serpent and a Lion. Some of the stonework surrounding this window appears to have been placed incorrectly but it does not really detract from the beauty of the Design. Both archways have white calcite on their undersides and rainwater has formed, as it does in limestone caves, some calcite stalactites, thin straw like features that protrude downwards from the arch. On a fine September evening when we visited it was quiet in the Glendalough area as all the tourists were gone so we had time to experience the solitude and peacefulness of St. Saviours location as it might have been for the monks more than 800 years ago.
To find the ruins, take the R755 from Enniskerry to Laragh, then keep right onto the R756 and drive for approx 1.5km until you see a road slope down on your left toward Glendalough. Halfway down this road is a large car park. From the car park cross the river and take the trail to the left. Walk for approx 1km and you will see a sign pointing left down to St.Saviours.