A guide to the best and sometimes off the beaten track historical ruins around Ireland and how to get there.
Wednesday, 20 September 2017
Termonfeckin Castle Co Louth
Above & Below Images: The locked entrance gate
Above Image: The projecting tower
Termonfeckin was originally a monastic site founded by St Fechin of Fore in the latter part of the 7th century. The Norman invasion resulted later in the building of two castles in the town but only one survives today. The non extant castle known as "The primates castle" had been used by the Bishops of Armagh over the years most notably by Archbishop Ussher in the early 17th century. It was partially damaged in 1641 during the rebellion and although still used for several years by James Ussher it fell into further disrepair and was finally demolished in 1830.
The remaining tower is the very sturdy Termonfeckin Castle which was constructed in the 15th or 16th century. It stands three storeys tall with a vaulted second level and a spiral stairs. It has a prominent projecting tower. Originally there was a second projecting tower but it too had been damaged in 1641. Later Captain James Brabazon (1619-1674) repaired and made some alterations to it but it now stands as a ruin.
We visited this castle during a weekday in September with a view to getting a look inside and reaching roof level. I was aware in advance that a key holder had to be located. Actually there is a notice on the gate advising that an entry key may be obtained from the first house on the right of the castle but when we followed the instructions we unfortunately found that there was nobody home and the mobile phone number supplied just rang out. Disappointing maybe as we probably just chose the wrong time to visit. However, I have every intention of returning soon to investigate the interior.
Please note if visiting that the key holder will request a deposit of 50 Euro which is fully reimbursed on the return of the key.
To find the ruin take the M1 heading North and at Junction 10 take the exit for the N51 to Drogheda. At the top of the ramp follow the roundabout to the right until you see the Drogheda exit.. Drive straight through the next roundabout and on the roundabout following that take the second exit to the right onto the R132. Drive for approx. 1.8KM until you reach a set of traffic lights with a left turn onto Patrick Street. Turn left onto Patrick street which once out of Drogheda becomes the R166 and continue for 7.5KM until you reach Termonfeckin. Once you have entered the village and you have crossed over the small stone bridge near the lofty spired church, take the first turn right which is opposite the car park of The Waterside restaurant. Drive up this narrow road and take the first turn left and the subsequently the next turn right down a cul-de-sac.. The castle is located on your right. You can park on the grass margin opposite.
SECOND VISIT MAY 2018
Above Image: Castle gate viewed from inside
Above Image: Interior ground floor
Above Image & Below Image: The vaulted above first floor
Above Image: Exit door from stairs to rooftop
Above Image: Turret chamber
As promised we returned to this castle with the intention of accessing the interior. A knock on the key holders door yielded no answer and we began to feel we were out of luck again. However on ringing the mobile number provided the lady of the house answered and gave us the key without a deposit and so we were in!
The interior displays a sturdy vaulted ceiling above the first floor and a set of very steep and narrow steps brought us to the second floor and subsequently the rooftop. It was really worth the climb as the views from here were amazing. There is a small turret chamber up here which may have served as a guard post. a second one in ruins was situated on the opposite corner. All in all a rewarding visit and well worth the persistence of returning and obtaining the key.
Tuesday, 5 September 2017
Maiden Tower Co Louth
Above Image: The Maiden Tower with obelisk in backround
Above Image: The boathouse building and Maiden Tower
Above Image: Blocked up entrance to Maiden Tower
Below 2 Images: The obelisk
The structures are accessible by a sandy track that leads to the rather stony beach. Apparently within the Maiden Tower a set of spiral steps leads to a barrel vaulted ceiling with an access point out onto the pararpets. A doorway which stands about 3 feet off the ground is now sadly barred up with a steel plate by the County Council as a result of vandalism to the tower in 2003. The original iron grill that blocked the door was forcibly removed by a vehicle with tow rope for no other reason than pure vandalism and to infiltrate and cause damage to the interior. To protect the tower from further harm it was closed to any public access.
We come now to the smaller structure which stands at 42 feet in height and is actually an obelisk of sorts. It was most likely used as described to act with the large tower as a navigational aid. It is local folklore that a lady awaiting the return of her mariner husband was viewing the ship's approach and on seeing the black sails which had been raised in error by the crew saw this as a signal that her husband had been killed. Quite distraught the lady threw herself from the tower to her death. It is said that the mariner who was still quite alive constructed the obelisk in her memory and it was called The Lady's Finger. That is the name to which it still known.
The building that stands adjacent to the tower was once a 19th century boathouse for the lifeboat service. This particular one ceased to be in 1926 falling into ruin thereafter. It was later refurbished to avoid more vandalism into a private dwelling but still daubings can be seen on a gable end one of them stating "The Mornington Mafia"
The tower and obelisk are well worth a visit especially on a clear day and with the backdrop of the estuary it's a very picturesque spot.
To find your way there take the M1 motorway heading North and exit at junction 7. Turn right at the roundabout at the top of the exit ramp and cross over the motorway taking the exit ahead on the next roundabout for the R132. Drive for approx 5KM and you will reach Julianstown. Continue through the village and drive another 3KM until you reach two roundabouts in close proximity. Take the right hand exit on the second roundabout onto the L1611 for Mornington. Continue on for another 3.5KM until you reach a stop sign at a staggered crossroads. (you will see a Texaco station ahead). Turn left at this junction and approx 400m along take the third turn right . This is called Tower Road. Just follow it until you see the entrance track to the Maiden Tower & Obelisk ahead. There is a height restrictive barrier for 2 Metres at the entrance but most.cars will fit under.and there's space beyond for a few vehicles.
P.S. I have substantially updated the post on Bective Abbey in county Meath if you would like to check it out.
Monday, 21 August 2017
Leixlip Spa Co Kildare
Above Image & Below Image; Access track
Above Image: Steps leading to Spa
Above Image: Trickle of spa water
Above & Below Images: Remains of Lengthsman's cottage
Above Image: Steps leading down to waterfall
Above & Below Images: The waterfall
Image Below: Mouth of the aqueduct tunnel
This unusual site can be found adjacent to the Royal canal near Louisa Bridge in Leixlip.
In 1793
when excavating the land near the canal to build an aqueduct so that the canal could
cross the Rye Water some of the workers discovered a hot spring with the water
emanating at a temperature of approx. 75 degrees Fahrenheit. William Connolly of Leixlip Castle (nephew of
the famed “Speaker Conolly”) requested the Royal Canal Company to divert the
spring water into a brick basin alongside the banks of the Rye Water. Connolly’s
entrepreneurial mind envisioned a Roman style outdoor bath and commissioned its
construction. He was motivated by the
success of the spring at Lucan which was discovered in 1758 and became very lucrative
spawning a hotel at the site and thousands of visitors. The Leixlip Spa once
constructed was indeed quite popular but the vision of a hotel never
materialised especially following Connollys death. The spa was still in use over
the years but by the 1960’s it had fallen into disrepair. A combination of
committees and donations helped restore it somewhat and it was a feature in one
of the late great Dick Warner’s Waterways documentaries in 2011 showing it then
to be in good condition. Sadly now it has regressed, becoming a receptacle for litter and
debris.and has also been daubed with graffiti
My
curiosity took hold of me recently and I decided to take a look at this oddity.
Free parking near Louisa Bridge seems hard to find so I just parked in the railway
station car park and paid the fee. I crossed the road to the track the runs
alongside the canal and found that a few yards down it split in two. I took the
left hand track that runs away from the canal and after a short walk came upon
the Romanesque bath in an area just below the grassy ridge I was standing on. A
rudimentary set of steps led down to the bath. Unfortunately things have not
improved and there was the remains of a fire that had been lit on the stone
surround. It would seem that the site is unfortunately attracting more
anti-social rather than social gatherings these days. There are two sets of
stone steps on each end of the bath which are still in very good condition. This
is such an unusual and pleasing remnant of the past and it would be great if it
could be restored again. I’m sure if properly managed it would attract visitors
to avail of what is said to be healing water.
I left the
site following a track that led up through the bushes toward the canal pathway
and here I found the derelict remains of the canal lengthsman’s house. This too was unfortunately defaced by graffiti. The Lengthsman
would have be responsible for a stretch of the canal maintaining the water
level. The run-off water was directed down the slope to the Rye Water forming a
manmade waterfall. Water still runs off to this day and you can access the
waterfall by taking the long set of
purposely built wooden stairs down towards the river. The area around
the Rye water banks is of great ecological interest with some very diverse
fauna to be seen. In late summer and
early Autumn be wary of the white flowered giant hogweed that is quite abundant
near the river and make sure your skin does not come in contact with it and
especially its sap which can cause serious burns.
To find the
Spa take the M4 junction 6 exit heading north toward Leixlip. Follow on through
two roundabouts and turn right on the second one onto the R149 and continue
until you reach the bridge over the canal at the train station. Take the first
right hand turn after the bridge and you will see the car park on your right.
The fee for the day is €4.50. The Spa can be found on the opposite side of the
road. Just follow the track alongside the canal and take the left hand fork a
few yards down.
Monday, 7 August 2017
Tullaherin Monastic Site Co Kilkenny
Above Image: Entrance gate
Above Image & Below 2 Images: Interior of the church
Above Image: The large Ogham stone
Above Image: The tower entrance now looks like a gaping maw
Above Image & Below 2 Images: Stroan Fountain
This monastic site is associated with St Ciaran the elder
who on returning from twenty years in Rome founded a monastery at Saighir and
also here in Tullaherin sometime in the 5th-6th century.
While none of the original structures survive at Tullaherin the site was deemed
very important and was built upon during the next few centuries. The incomplete
Round tower we see today stands approx. 73 feet high and was constructed in the
9th century and as with most towers was designed to protect the
monks and their valuables from marauding Vikings. The tower is missing its
conical top and indeed shows evidence of leaning somewhat. St Ciaran is reputed
to be buried here, some believe in the vicinity
of the tower. The large ruins adjacent to the tower are of an 11th
or 12th century Church which was added to in the 1400’s by the
construction of a chancel. It is divided into two sections. After the
dissolution the Church changed hands to serve the Protestant community and was greatly
renovated in 1616. However, the 1837 ordnance survey map lists the church as
being in ruins.
The site is very impressive. It is somewhat off the beaten
track but is well worth a visit. We were directed here whilst visiting nearby
Kilfane Church (see post here) by a local man binging his kids to see the
magnificent medieval Knight effigy. We later ran into them again at Tullaherin.
A combination of both places makes for a really rewarding journey.
Two Ogham stones were discovered here in the past one of
which was removed from the site and rediscovered in the 1980’s propping up a
gate on nearby lands. It was brought back to Tullaherin and placed adjacent to
the South wall and close to the base of the tower. It still has some
inscriptions upon it but they are fairly illegible.
I’m not sure if there is work going on here at the moment
but there are warning signs placed on the church ruins to avoid entering the
ruins. However you can pretty much get around what you need to see.
Two asides of interest. The first is the existence here of a
cillin which is a rather sad thing to encounter. It is basically a kind of
potter’s field for children. A mass burial site where unfortunately deceased
and unbaptized infants were buried. This was usually situated nearby the
consecrated graveyard but still outside the walls leaving them in some respect
divorced from the normal populace. It was a common practice in early Ireland
and there are numerous examples around the country. Very sad indeed. The other
item of interest is on one of the approach roads to Tullherin. It is an ornate
fountain called the Stroan fountain It was commissioned by Colonel Bushe of
Kilfane House in 1766 using local limestone. Its purpose was to supply water to
the tenants of his estate. It is aesthetically pleasing to the eye and was renovated
but unfortunately the tantalisingly clear water flowing from it has at the
moment a warning not to consume direct from the fountain due to bacteria
present. Hopefully this will be resolved at some stage.
Take the M9 heading South and exit at Junction 7 and at the
top of the exit ramp take the left hand exit for the R448 (signposted for
Thomastown). Continue straight through the next roundabout and on the
subsequent roundabout turn right on to the continuance of the R448. Continue on
through the villages of Gowran and Dungarvan and approx. 4KM out of Dungarvan
you will find a right hand turn. Unfortunately there are no direction signs but
if you pass the Long Man restaurant & bar on your right then you need to
turn and go back approx. 500m and take the first left turn. Follow this road
for approx. 1.75KM and you will reach a crossroads at Tullaherin Church. Turn
left and you can park in the car park of the modern church. The monastic site
is directly opposite.
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